Lhotse Expedition 2026 Latest Update
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Current Status
Lhotse expeditions in Nepal are progressing alongside Everest operations, as both peaks share the same approach and initial route.
All major teams have established Base Camp, and climbers are currently in the early acclimatization phase, moving through the lower sections of the route.
Shared Everest–Lhotse route during early season movement
Route Progress
The route up to Camp 2 follows the same line as Mount Everest via the Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm.
- Khumbu Icefall route is open and in use
- Movement toward Camp 1 and Camp 2 has started
- Route above Camp 2 toward the Lhotse Face is under preparation
Fixing teams have not yet completed rope installation on the upper sections specific to Lhotse.
Acclimatization Activity
Climbers are currently completing initial rotations:
- Base Camp to Camp 1 crossings are ongoing
- Some teams have reached Camp 2
- Most climbers are still in early adaptation phase
At this stage, the focus remains on gradual altitude gain and load ferry.
Weather and Conditions
Conditions on Lhotse are consistent with Everest due to the shared route:
- Stable mornings with increasing afternoon cloud cover
- Cold temperatures in the Western Cwm
- Icefall remains active with normal seasonal movement
Lhotse Face and approach conditions during early season
No major storms have been reported, but upper mountain conditions are still developing.
Achievements So Far
- Base Camp established by all major expeditions
- Successful crossings through Khumbu Icefall
- Climbers reaching Camp 1 and Camp 2
- Early-stage route work in progress
What Has Not Happened Yet
- No confirmed movement above Camp 2 toward higher camps
- No summit attempts have started
- Lhotse Face route is not fully fixed
Outlook
The Lhotse expedition is progressing in line with Everest and remains in a preparatory phase.
Next steps include:
- Continued rotations to Camp 2 and Camp 3
- Rope fixing along the Lhotse Face
- Coordination with Everest teams for upper route access
Summit attempts are expected during the May 2026 weather window, depending on route completion and stable conditions.
